VERY RARE VINTAGE HUBERT HARMON STERLING SILVER AND AMETHYST NECKLACE

Description

EXTREMELY RARE AND HIGHLY SOUGHT AFTER!
This is a gorgeous and rare Hubert Harmon Sterling Silver and Amethyst Necklace, produced in the 1940's by Harmon's studio in Taxco, Mexico. Harmon's jewelry production numbers were very low compared to the other Taxco artisans. His work was sold in the most exclusive shops in Mexico, his work is very rare and commands premium prices due to it's limited production.
The necklace is in beautiful vintage condition with 10 swirled links, each with a beautiful amethyst cabochon. Each link is one inch in length and a little over one half inch wide.
The length including the clasp is 15 1/2". The weight of the necklace is 37.0 grams.
The link left of the clasp is hallmarked with "Sterling, Hubert Harmon, Made in Mexico". The link right of the clasp is signed with Harmon's unique upturned soles and angel wings.
This piece is in beautiful vintage condition and has not been cleaned. I leave that choice to it's next owner.
Hubert Pickering Harmon
Harmon studied at the Parsons School of Design in Paris. In January, 1940, he married divorcé, Louise (de Mocher) Frazier. Before his marriage, Harmon had lived in Paris and London where he designed fashions for Schiaparelli, Jean Patou, Elizabeth Arden, Marcel Rochas, and others. His design work ultimately took him to New York.
In the early 1940’s, Harmon and his wife moved to Taxco, Mexico where he worked briefly in jewelry design from 1943 to 1948 before moving to Mexico City. His Taxco shop began as a small workshop of silversmiths that included, among others, noted craftsman, Felipe Martinez. The artisans he employed transformed Harmon’s unusual designs into metal. The pieces created during this period are rare, imaginative, and very collectible. In fact, some of Harmon’s work was included in the traveling exhibit, William Spratling and the Mexican Silver Renaissance.
Harmon’s hallmark was a pair of feet with wings. Among the jewelry pieces created by the talented designers in Harmon’s workshop were those that included expressive faces carved in amethyst quartz, onyx, and lapis for Harmon’s angel and mermaid designs. Louise encouraged Hubert and wore his designs.
Angels were a favorite Harmon motif. The winged feet on the back of Harmon’s brooches, earrings, and cufflinks represent “sleeping angels.” The feet that appear in conjunction with the wings symbolize forward movement. Harmon also favored stars, dolphins, mermaids, nymphs, and dogs, especially poodles.
The couple left Taxco after living there for six months because of a “shooting incident in a bar.” From Taxco, they moved to their Mexico City townhouse.
Harmon’s partner in Taxco supervised the workshop and Harmon often visited Taxco with new designs. During Harmon’s Taxco years, only the most exclusive shops carried his work. Harmon’s designs are quite rare and highly sought-after because of the limited output and production.
In the 1950’s the Mexico City jewelry firm, Casa Maya, created copies of Harmon designs. Original Hubert Harmon jewelry was reproduced by Maya in less expensive brass and copper for the burgeoning tourist market. The pieces incorporated Harmon’s style and often featured geometric shapes, spots, dots, and spheres that were translated into underwater mine motifs. Hair pins, earrings, bracelets and belts have come to light in this naval “mine” style.
Hubert Harmon designs produced in Mexico City by Casa Maya do not surface very often. When they do, they command high prices because Harmon’s original silver pieces made in Taxco are even more difficult to find.